What is it with this heightened frenzy bordering on fanatical obsession with achieving glowing skin, a kind of "lit-from-within" glow that the generally inane and superfluous skin influencers endlessly go on about? We have become a culture obsessed with glowing, and is this even achievable or healthy for us? Here is a thought I read in an article by Emily Shildt: “isnt our obsession with glowing skin more than just coveting the skin of literal babies?”
So how did we get here, to this place of unrealistic expectations, and who is driving or deciding that this is the direction we should be going in? This is a whole can of worms in and of itself, around the power of social media and its influence. Still, if you look back at how influence has been wielded throughout history, it becomes multi-layered and even more fascinating. The reality is that while the term "social media influencer" is modern, the concept is not and in fact, the function of influencer has developed and evolved across generations.
The earliest recorded moments of beauty influence can undoubtedly be found in ancient Egypt, with Nefertiti and Cleopatra following in her footsteps as the main stars. Kohl's eyeliner is a perfect example of Nefertiti’s role as the OG of influencers. Both men and women used it for aesthetics and practical purposes, protecting the eyes from the harsh desert sun, and it was also believed to ward off evil. Using black kohl was already a part of Egyptian culture, but Nefertiti's status and iconic imagery amplified its popularity and made her a symbol of its use. The depictions of Egyptian royalty and elites in artwork and hieroglyphs spread these beauty practices, setting trends and heavily influencing the beautification practices of their time and those that followed. Here is the thing, though: using cosmetics in ancient Egypt was tied to social status and religious practices, which gave the practice credence to these influences. What, if any, and where do the beauty influencers of today get their credence from?
Nefertiti and Cleopatra were, in essence, masters of visual branding, setting beauty trends that resonated throughout their societies. Their curated images, disseminated through art and hieroglyphs, were powerful "content," shaping cultural perceptions of beauty and status. They cultivated strong personal brands, associating themselves with power and divinity. Drawing a similarity between Nefertiti, Cleopatra, and today's social media influencers seems sacrilege, with today's influences being lightweight and superfluous. But there is no doubt that ancient queens and today's social media beauty have this in common: they leverage their influence to shape cultural norms and inspire emulation, demonstrating the enduring power of visual representation in establishing and disseminating beauty ideals. The fascinating reality is that the short-term reach of today's social media beauty influencers extends far beyond that of the ancient Icons, and that is where the challenges come.
Technology is a wondrous thing. Think about the transportation available to Cleopatra in her most luxurious carriage. She possessed less 'horsepower' and offered far less comfort than the average modern SUV driven by a typical soccer mom or rugby mom in South Africa today. However, while social media offers numerous benefits, it presents many well-documented and avidly discussed negative aspects. These widespread views are constantly being discussed and documented, reflecting a growing awareness of the potential harms associated with social media use and the rising role of influencers. The negative opinions on influencers, especially those in the beauty sector, highlight the lack of authenticity, promotion of harmful content, misleading practices, and negative contribution of unrealistic expectations and beauty standards, besides the fact that they actively fuel a culture of materialism, which is already rampant and ultimately unsustainable. We live in an era where our consumerist culture has reached a fever pitch, drowning us in a sea of unchecked consumption, consumed by an insatiable appetite that is rampant and unmanageable for our beautiful planet. I wrote a blog about the abject horror I experience whenever I see a beauty influencer doing an unnecessary and unsustainable unpackaging.
Many forms of “beauty influencing” have influenced and shaped us all through the centuries. It starts with someone's perception of beauty and then spreads from there. From the OG ancient Egyptian queen, it moved to Ancient Greece, whose sculptures, philosophers and ideals emphasised symmetry and proportion, influencing concepts of beauty. Next up were the Medieval and Renaissance eras, with the royal courts, particularly in France, dictating fashion and beauty trends. Figures like Marie Antoinette set standards for hairstyles, makeup, and dress, and on the flip side, religious figures influenced modesty and simplicity in appearance. Through the years, royalty and wealth played a huge role in this, with status and power being vast drivers of the reach of influence.
With the advent of the 20th century, Silent Movie stars were the next round of “beauty influencers,” with actresses like Clara Bow popularising specific makeup styles and looks. Next up were Hollywood Icons like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor, who became symbols of beauty and style, shaping and influencing their generations and generations to come. You only need to think of the debacle of Kim Kardashian in Marilyn Monroe’s iconic dress to feel the full magnitude of the enduring influence of these real icons. Next up was the era of supermodels like Twiggy, Naomi Campbell, and Cindy Crawford, powerful beauty influencers who shaped perceptions of ideal beauty. The rise of mass media (newspapers, radio, television) amplified the reach of these old-school style beauty influencers. What I will say about this is at least there was a sense of the real in their looks and their resultant influence.
Then came the digital age, the 21st Century, and there is no doubt that there is so much that is right and real about it, but also on the flip side as I outlined above, that isnt at all right or at all real. The internet democratised beauty influence, allowing individuals like Michelle Phan and NikkieTutorials to build massive followings, with platforms like Instagram and TikTok creating a new generation of beauty influencers who shape trends and promote products. The internet and social media have democratised influence, enabling diverse voices and the power of visual culture to resonate, allowing individuals to build followings and exert influence without traditional gatekeepers, which is, in the spirit of democracy, a good thing and essentially should be a human right.
Today's beauty influencers' rapid and expansive short-term reach is undeniable, far exceeding the pace of ancient beauty influencers or iconic influencers of past generations. However, this accelerated dissemination of information and trends presents significant challenges, including maintaining authenticity, ensuring longevity, promoting responsibility, and combating the rapid spread of misinformation. Despite the potential for superficiality, social media has also democratised influence, enabling diverse voices and the power of visual culture to resonate, albeit within a fleeting and rapidly evolving digital landscape, creating a new economy of influence. The commercialisation of influence is also vastly different, with modern influencers monetizing their platforms through sponsorships and affiliate marketing. Essentially, the core of "influence" has remained the same: building trust and credibility and using that to shape opinions and behaviors. What has changed is the technology and platforms through which influence is disseminated.
To be clear, this is where it goes wrong. With the plethora of social media beauty influencing you find on the various platforms, where we, the consumers, make no mistake when scrolling on the platforms, we are consumers, are flooded with images and videos of people with flawless, radiant skin. With very little regard for transparency about the filters and editing tools used. It is these same filters and editing tools that go a long way to create and/or enhance this idealized look, ultimately creating a perception that glowing skin is easily attainable and highly desirable. All of this is only exasperated by the marketing and advertising of the skin care industry, which heavily promotes products promising a "glow," only further fueling the desire for an unobtainable illusion of a radiant skin.
And yes, there is a strong and vibrant cultural shift with a growing focus on wellness and self-care. With its numerous trends and directions, the global wellness market is estimated at 1.8 trillion USD. That is an astounding sum of money that is difficult to comprehend. And just to be clear, the beauty industry overlaps with and falls under the broader umbrella of the wellness industry. Glowing skin is seen as a reflection of a person's overall health and vitality.
But is the natural glow we see on these platforms presented by the beauty influencers? Being deeply entrenched in the beauty and skincare industry, I am pretty sure it rarely is. To be absolutely clear, it is not a natural glow when it's all about technological advancements, where new skincare ingredients and technologies offer the potential to achieve a more radiant complexion. This all makes the goal of “naturally” glowing seem more realistic yet out of touch with what a real natural glow is.
It's a natural and normal desire to want to be healthy, and wanting healthy skin is part of this. But the reality is that it won't ever be achieved by relying solely on products or, for that matter, by chasing unrealistic ideals. We are all different, and everyone's skin is unique, and ultimately striving for an unrealistic ideal is not suitable for us. Ultimately, it always comes back to the adage, for good reason; it's all about balance, and more importantly, embracing your natural beauty and where you are. Let's celebrate diverse skin tones and textures and focus on overall well-being rather than chasing an elusive image and a very transitory "perfect" glow.