Living in a small town has many perks, but, like everything, it also has its drawbacks. That's why I always say pick your poison; nothing is ever perfect. One of the drawbacks is that when I need to go on a larger shopping expedition, I have to travel to George. Although it's not a metropolis, it's always an adventure and, at the same time, a mission. Still, like I said, nothing is perfect. One of the perks of shopping at a larger centre is that I get to see what's happening in the skincare industry and how brands are positioning themselves. Which, of course, considering my chosen career, fascinates me. On my last trip to George, I read a brand slogan: ‘Our product works in, not on the skin!’ - one of those giant promotional banners displayed loudly and proudly behind their skincare range. For the first few seconds, I was intrigued because this is a question I have grappled with for many hours. However, the more I sat with it, the more I considered its various implications, so I decided to explore this topic and see where it led.
But why does this subject fascinate me? Yes I was a pimply teenager, with definitie periods of bad acne, and this evolved into bouts of seriously bad skin which didnt fully resolve till my early thirties. I am a big believer that our environment, with all its various aspects, and what we put in and on our bodies, play a pivotal part in how we look, how we feel, and our overall sense of well-being. And why I am such a firm believer is part of my own life story, so buckle up and prepare yourself for a tangent.
When I was firmly entrenched in the shipping industry, a heinous time, I was a pack-a-day smoker, a Diet Coke fiend, not a joyous social drinker but instead dipping onto a scarier side at times, two to three cappuccinos and copious amounts of aspirin to cope with the throbbing headache my lifestyle was creating. Needless to say, my skin was far from happy, and it showed. One of the comments I remember a colleague repeating to me ever so kindly, made by a male colleague whom I had an intense dislike of, and the feeling was entirely mutual, said with apparent great glee that I was ageing very badly, it wasn't the wake-up call I needed, but it stuck. While the thought of seeing this person fills me with horror, I do like the thought of “if only you could see me now……” But I try to be the bigger person and feel ease, calm, and endless love for everyone.
Anyway, I finally escaped the dark holes of hell, which was the corporate environment, gave up smoking, any drinking and went on the first of many detox’s, some more wild and interesting than others, many bizarre and at times crazy healing adventures, but with each step forward I learnt more about what I needed and at the same time what my skin needed. During one of the calmer retreats I enjoyed, I met many lovely vegan individuals. I was a vegetarian at the time, hence I was socially acceptable to them than I am today. It intrigued me to no end how they were so dedicated and filled with well-meaning vitriol about what they put in their bodies, yet had absolutely no thoughts about what they were putting on their bodies.
I have said this many times, and I am sure I will say it many more times, the natural skin care world is a space of very muddy and murky waters. There is a significant lack of clarity for a multitude of reasons, some valid and some just rubbish. So I have learnt to find my clarity and direction, not always based purely on any one set of principles, but based on my inner sense of self and reasoning. For example, Charlotte Gerson, known for her promotion of the Gerson Therapy—a dietary therapy for cancer and other illnesses considered alternative—has stated that everything you put on your skin enters your bloodstream. If you then go and read the science and research that abound in the skincare industry to justify the latest ingredient or product, this is considered an oversimplification and is not a valid perspective. I have heard many times that you can't argue with science, but the whole point of science is that it is self-correcting and that raising questions and re-examining the facts is, in fact, essential. So while I dont intend to argue with science, I will constantly question the outcomes if they do not sit well with me.
My absolute favourite pet peeve is petroleum-derived products, which are ubiquitous in skincare products like lip balms, baby care, moisturisers, body lotions, haircare, make-up removers, and the list goes on. Initially, when petroleum-derived ingredients were first used, they were less refined, and there were no rigorous testing and safety protocols in place as there are today. While widely used, highly refined petrolatum and mineral oils have excellent occlusive properties and are relatively inexpensive; however, concerns persist due to the possibility of contamination with Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH), which are known to be carcinogenic. Here comes the crunch: depending on which regulatory body is adhered to during the refinement process, different standards of purity and different PAH content are applied, and that, my friend, is where you lose me. Firstly, I dont want any product with PAH or other questionable properties, and secondly I dont want to use a skincare product that uses ingredients where regulatory bodies agree/disagree to differ on their standards for purification or safety, no matter how safe the science says it is.
The skin is the largest organ of the body and one of the most complex. To gain a basic understanding of how the skin functions, here is a brief overview. The skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer, whose function is barrier and protection; the dermis, the middle layer, made up of collagen, elastin, blood vessels and nerves; and the hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of the skin, whose function is cushioning and insulation. The epidermis consists of five distinct layers, with the outermost layer being the stratum corneum, which serves as the skin's primary barrier to external elements.
When looking at how science understands the functioning of our skin and its permeability, there are two distinct approaches to understanding how skin care products are absorbed into the skin: penetration and absorption. The skin serves as a barrier, and its primary role is to protect the human body from the external environment; the stratum corneum primarily fulfils this role. The stratum corneum prevents different substances from penetrating deeply into the skin. According to dermatology, pharmacology, and cosmetic science, the discussion between penetration and absorption is crucial for understanding and clarification. Penetration refers to the movement of a product through the outer layers of the skin, whereas absorption occurs when a product crosses the skin barrier and enters the bloodstream. According to this definition, I only look for and read ingredients to ensure that they penetrate my skin and steer clear of any ingredients or products that claim deeper absorption.
When assessing the penetration or absorption of skin care products, it is worthwhile to consider the various factors that influence the absorption of ingredients. These factors are primarily molecular size, solubility, concentration, product formulation, skin condition, and the area of the skin where the product will be applied. To note that the skin on the face is more permeable than other areas of the body. Ultimately, most skin care products are designed to work primarily on the outer layers of the skin, specifically the epidermis, to provide protection, hydration, and enhance the skin's appearance. In essence, skin care products are not formulated or designed to be absorbed into the bloodstream; they are formulated and designed to penetrate the skin. However, there is always the possibility that some chemicals or synthetic ingredients, such as those found in preservatives, can be absorbed into the bloodstream and, in turn, have an adverse effect. This is because there is a plethora of synthetic ingredients that are cheaper and easier to use, and in most cases, they are the first choice.
To sum it all up, to say that everything that you put onto your skin enters the bloodstream is not 100 per cent accurate. Still, on the same note, it is not entirely false; it's, as usual, a nuanced and multilayered discussion that each of us must explore and reach our own satisfactory conclusions. For me, I know and am very clear that if a product even suggests it absorbs and works in my skin, then I am out!